Sunday, 13 June 2010
Wednesday, 12 May 2010
Remember to:
Check the following before you make your BLOG public:
Copyright - using material that belongs to someone else.
Every picture you put on your Blog needs to be yours. Don't publish pictures that you did not create or that were someonelse's and you added to in some way.
Issues of confidentiality - publishing material that may compromise someone.
You cannot publish anything that would reveal personal details about someone. Names, phone numbers, marital status etc.
Libel - writing anything that may 'defame' someone.
Don't write anything negative about someone who can be identified from your comments. Take off your comments for example, on other peopl's blogs.
To make your BLOG public go to -
-customise
-settings
-permissions
-Blog Readers
-tick on 'all readers'
Copyright - using material that belongs to someone else.
Every picture you put on your Blog needs to be yours. Don't publish pictures that you did not create or that were someonelse's and you added to in some way.
Issues of confidentiality - publishing material that may compromise someone.
You cannot publish anything that would reveal personal details about someone. Names, phone numbers, marital status etc.
Libel - writing anything that may 'defame' someone.
Don't write anything negative about someone who can be identified from your comments. Take off your comments for example, on other peopl's blogs.
To make your BLOG public go to -
-customise
-settings
-permissions
-Blog Readers
-tick on 'all readers'
Monday, 10 May 2010
Using curves
Use curves to adjust a colour image and use Photoshop Help to show you how to do this.
Go to:
-Photoshop Help
-Making colour and tonal adjustments
--Adjust image colour and tone
-Curves overview.
Photoshop help is very good and it is useful for you to get used to referring to it.
Go to:
-Photoshop Help
-Making colour and tonal adjustments
--Adjust image colour and tone
-Curves overview.
Photoshop help is very good and it is useful for you to get used to referring to it.
Monday, 26 April 2010
Colour in CAD
For the following show before and after pictures and explain what you did. Distinction marks depend on showing an understanding so review and evaluate what you are doing. To help you achieve this ask yourself if you completed your own objective with the picture.
1. Turn a colour digital image Black and White. For instructions on this see the Black and White post of this BLOG.
2. To achieve a naturalistic result use levels white dropper on a picture to get a realistic colour balance.
3. Isolate one area of the picture to stay in colour and make the rest Black and White (use instructions from number 1). Adjust the colour separately.
4. Choose a filter to change the colour use it and discuss the results.
5. Change the colour in a picture using curves and explain what you did.
1. Turn a colour digital image Black and White. For instructions on this see the Black and White post of this BLOG.
2. To achieve a naturalistic result use levels white dropper on a picture to get a realistic colour balance.
3. Isolate one area of the picture to stay in colour and make the rest Black and White (use instructions from number 1). Adjust the colour separately.
4. Choose a filter to change the colour use it and discuss the results.
5. Change the colour in a picture using curves and explain what you did.
Sunday, 28 March 2010
Task for CAD
Look at: 'Black and White Conversion methods' label and change one of your own colour digital photographs in this way. Then choose another way of converting colour into Black and White in Photoshop and change the same photo again. Compare the results, consider which one is better and explain why. In particular consider the tonal value, does the picture have many tones between the darkest black and the lightest white? Is one result more evocative than another?
Wednesday, 24 March 2010
Using Channels - converting to Black and White.
1. Open Image in Photoshop and make a duplicate (save the original work on the duplicate)
2. Go to 'Layer' in the horizontal tool bar:
- New adjustment Layer
-Channel Mixer (Click) -
first window click ok
second window adjust to:
select monochrome x
Then, as a rough guide try this combination:
Red 70%
Green 30%
Blue 20%
Adjust this so that it LOOKS good (how you want it) but aim at the total percentage of colours equalling 100%
3. Add Hue/Saturation Layer
(Go to Layers-New Adjustment Layer - Hue/Saturation - OK)
Click OK
Then go to Layers window and move your HUe/Saturation Layer (click and drag) UNDER the Channel Mixer (so it is closest to the background layer) - double click on the icon(black and white circle) - adjust the saturation.
2. Go to 'Layer' in the horizontal tool bar:
- New adjustment Layer
-Channel Mixer (Click) -
first window click ok
second window adjust to:
select monochrome x
Then, as a rough guide try this combination:
Red 70%
Green 30%
Blue 20%
Adjust this so that it LOOKS good (how you want it) but aim at the total percentage of colours equalling 100%
3. Add Hue/Saturation Layer
(Go to Layers-New Adjustment Layer - Hue/Saturation - OK)
Click OK
Then go to Layers window and move your HUe/Saturation Layer (click and drag) UNDER the Channel Mixer (so it is closest to the background layer) - double click on the icon(black and white circle) - adjust the saturation.
Monday, 22 March 2010
Converting to Black and White using Layers and Hue/Saturation
First of all go to the 'Window' drop down menu and make sure 'Layers' is selected.
1. Go to Layers (drop down menu)
- New Adjustment Layer
-Hue/Saturation
Click OK to New Layer window.
2. In the nex window to open up 'Hue/Saturation' reduce Saturation to -100 (far left) and click ok.
3. Click on 'Background' in Layers palette.
4. Go to Layer on drop down menu (again) and
-New Adjustment Layer
- Hue/Saturation
-In 'Mode:' change 'Normal' to 'color' (close to the bottom).
5. In Hue/Saturation window click OK
6. In Layer's window double clikc on the bottom hue/saturation layer's icon.
7. In this window change the 'master' drop down menu first to 'red' and adjust, then to 'green' and adjust then to 'blue' and adjust.
Click ok when you've done.
This will now be a psd file (Photoshop document) which takes up a lot of memory. If you want you can save it like that and then do a duplicate and go to the Layers window and 'merge layers' then save as a jpg. Or simply save as a jpg in the first place but then you won't have an original.
1. Go to Layers (drop down menu)
- New Adjustment Layer
-Hue/Saturation
Click OK to New Layer window.
2. In the nex window to open up 'Hue/Saturation' reduce Saturation to -100 (far left) and click ok.
3. Click on 'Background' in Layers palette.
4. Go to Layer on drop down menu (again) and
-New Adjustment Layer
- Hue/Saturation
-In 'Mode:' change 'Normal' to 'color' (close to the bottom).
5. In Hue/Saturation window click OK
6. In Layer's window double clikc on the bottom hue/saturation layer's icon.
7. In this window change the 'master' drop down menu first to 'red' and adjust, then to 'green' and adjust then to 'blue' and adjust.
Click ok when you've done.
This will now be a psd file (Photoshop document) which takes up a lot of memory. If you want you can save it like that and then do a duplicate and go to the Layers window and 'merge layers' then save as a jpg. Or simply save as a jpg in the first place but then you won't have an original.
Sunday, 28 February 2010
Layers and Masks
Look at:
Wendy McMurdo
Paul M Smith
Adam Green
To bring your pictures together in Photoshop:
As usual - save originals and make duplicate files. {Before you upload them to screen change the dpi to 72 in images side but DON'T do this until you have finished working on them - and then save the one you worked on and make a duplicate for screen.}
Wendy McMurdo
Paul M Smith
Adam Green
To bring your pictures together in Photoshop:
As usual - save originals and make duplicate files. {Before you upload them to screen change the dpi to 72 in images side but DON'T do this until you have finished working on them - and then save the one you worked on and make a duplicate for screen.}
- Decide which is going to be your background and which the overlay (to go into the 'background' picture)
- Use the move tool (top right 'tool palette' icon). Click on to the overlay picture and drag it on top of your background picture. This now appears in the background layer palette as 'Layer 1'.
- In the 'Layer Palette', change the 'Opacity' scale to a lower percentage (making sure that 'Layer 1' is selected). Now you will be able to see the background layer behind as well as the overlay.
- Creating a Layer Mask and using 'reveal all' (or 'hide all' - see 7.). This helps to improve your accuracy but remember whichever way you do this the job is fiddly! Select the top layer 'Layer 1' go to -
layer - layer mask - reveal all. - Reveal all shows all the overlay. You can alter the opacity in the Layers palette if this helps but it is easier to see what you are doing at 100%. To get rid of what you don't want use the paintbrushes. First, check that the colours (at the bottom of the 'tool palette') are black and white - you can switch between these using 'x' on the keyboard (to add or subtract from the picture) or click the arrow next to the box.
- Click on paint brush and choose an appropriate size from the tool bar. Make sure the layer box in the Layer palette is highlighted (click on it). Then paint away with the brush - getting rid of the overlay that you don't want. If you take away something you want press 'x' on the keyboard and then paint it back in.
- and using 'hide all'. At number 4 above you can click on 'hide all' instead in which case the overlay is hidden and you paint it back in using a paintbrush and the black and white colours at the bottom of the tool palette.
Sunday, 21 February 2010
Review - to be up to date do the following:
Use a sSLR (digital single lens reflex camera) on shutter speed priority and then on aperture priority.
Shutter Speed priority
Usually marked as a 'S' on the dial.
This allows you to choose a shutter speed, which is then fixed. This would cause a problem with exposure as you move from light to dark situations but in this mode the camera will change the aperture for you to make sure the exposure is correct.
For example, you may decide that 1/250 is a good speed to freeze some action (running water for instance). In this case you could choose 'S' on the dial, change the shutter speed to 1/250 and as you point to shoot in a light situation the camera may adjust to f16 (smaller aperture and therefore less light) and when you point to a dark area the aperture may open up to f3.6.
Aperture priority
Usually marked as an 'A' on the dial.
This allows you to choose an aperture, which the camera then fixes for you. Consequently the camera adjusts the shutter speed according to the lighting situation (exposure value).
For example, you may want a short depth of field for a portrait and therefore choose f3.6 (or even f1.4 if possible), this is a wide, open aperture. In a brightly lit situation the camera would choose a fast shutter speed so that not too much light coems in. If you then move to a darker lighting situation the camera could adjust the shutter speed to 1/60 or 1/30 so that enough light gets in to expose the shot properly.
By the end of today you need to have used both of the above 'mo9des' on the dSLR camera dial, achieving the following examples (four mininum):
When you have finsihed these tasks you can look through all the work you have done so far on this course and decide what chanes you would like to make to them on Photoshop (we will discuss how later). On the 8th of March present your intentions on iphoto slideshow, discussing what you wish to change and why.
Shutter Speed priority
Usually marked as a 'S' on the dial.
This allows you to choose a shutter speed, which is then fixed. This would cause a problem with exposure as you move from light to dark situations but in this mode the camera will change the aperture for you to make sure the exposure is correct.
For example, you may decide that 1/250 is a good speed to freeze some action (running water for instance). In this case you could choose 'S' on the dial, change the shutter speed to 1/250 and as you point to shoot in a light situation the camera may adjust to f16 (smaller aperture and therefore less light) and when you point to a dark area the aperture may open up to f3.6.
Aperture priority
Usually marked as an 'A' on the dial.
This allows you to choose an aperture, which the camera then fixes for you. Consequently the camera adjusts the shutter speed according to the lighting situation (exposure value).
For example, you may want a short depth of field for a portrait and therefore choose f3.6 (or even f1.4 if possible), this is a wide, open aperture. In a brightly lit situation the camera would choose a fast shutter speed so that not too much light coems in. If you then move to a darker lighting situation the camera could adjust the shutter speed to 1/60 or 1/30 so that enough light gets in to expose the shot properly.
By the end of today you need to have used both of the above 'mo9des' on the dSLR camera dial, achieving the following examples (four mininum):
- 1. A short depth of field. (A little in focus)
- 2. A deep depth of field. (A lot in focus)
- 3. Movement frozen with a fast shutter speed.
- 4. Movement blurred with a slow shutter speed.
When you have finsihed these tasks you can look through all the work you have done so far on this course and decide what chanes you would like to make to them on Photoshop (we will discuss how later). On the 8th of March present your intentions on iphoto slideshow, discussing what you wish to change and why.
Saturday, 28 November 2009
For reference:
www.stephengill.co.uk go to: Hackney flowers
Google images, search: scan self-portrait
Google Emily August and Fred Miranda
Google images, search: scan self-portrait
Google Emily August and Fred Miranda
This picture is a scan of an old fashioned lens and flower petals from my garden. It reflects two aspects of my life. These two aspects are directly represented in the flowers and lens. However, the vivid colours are equally important to me. There would be no colour without light as colour is a reflection of light, different frequencies of waves on the electro mangnetic spectrum.
Sunday, 11 October 2009
Make sure your Blogger is NOT public.
Monday 12th OctoberWell-done. There are a lot of stunning Blogs being created in this class.
Today make sure you have finished the following.
1. If you have a completed photogram (from your rotation class) scan it, adjust it for the screen (72dpi) and upload it to your Blog (Posting-New Post- click on photo icon). Otherwise make sure you have scanned another image.
2. Make sure you have gone to your email address and accepted all Blogger invitations from those in your class.
3. Make sure you have invited everyone to be an author and got the email address correct (Settings-Permissions-Add Author).
4. Make sure that all your entries have a label. If you did not do this when you uploaded then go to Posting-Edit Post and add a label to each entry.
5. Make sure that your Blog is not public. Go to Settings-Permissions-Blog Readers-click on 'Only blog authors'. You must not forget to do this because of issues of privacy, confidentiality and copyright.
6. Comment on all your entries. Explain what you did to achieve each entry. This is where you will pick up higher marks which we will be looking at in the next brief.
Once you have completed ALL of the above please go to PhotoShop and use Layers again to manipulate an image (to upload) again.
Sunday, 27 September 2009
Sunday, 20 September 2009
Monday, 31 August 2009
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